![]() ![]() If you run no PV in the back, go with a main jet 8-10 numbers above the front one. ![]() With that being said, you'll find that if you run the same jet front and rear you are darn close Then find the area of the PV channels, and jet accordingly to equal the old jet-only total If you run 2 PV's, square jet it (same size front and back)thats the first thingĪctually the real way to pick an initial point, is find the area of the jet on the original setup. Honestly though I have always preferred the driveability of two PVs, it just depends what you want to do Just need to be sure you jet accordingly, although GSXRKen had a great point, the PV is the first to uncover if your car hooks. There's not even a way to install a power valve in it, if you wanted to, short of modifying the metering block, or getting an aftermarket one. by 2000 RPM's and didn't drop below 300 until it ran into the rev limiter at 5500 RPMs.Īctually, my 4779-1 doesn't even have the hole in the secondary metering block tapped. This is the calibration in my dyno run with 351 RWHP, 416 ft. It has no noticeable bogs or flat spots, but the dyno shows that we do have some more power to get out of fine tuning this engine. He listed is what I have, the calibration I have, and the Dyno's fuel ratio showed it as slightly rich. ![]() Best to get back to stock and then go from there. maybe all?), thus comes with only 1 power valve. My 4779-1 is not 4-corner idle (as most 750 DP's. 750 DP's come stock with only ONE power valve.įrom what I've found, only those carbs with 4-corner idle have the second power valve, but there could be some exceptions to this rule. This is exactly what I found in every document I've found. We're talking mechanical secondary Double Pumpers here. ![]()
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